Cost of Aluminum Roof Installation

Aluminum roofing in Nassau County typically costs $14 to $22 per square foot installed-so a 1,600-square-foot cape runs about $22,000 to $35,000, and a 2,400-square-foot colonial about $34,000 to $53,000. Those numbers include tear-off, underlayment, aluminum panels, flashings, and labor. Exact cost depends on your roof complexity, how close you are to the water, and which aluminum system you choose-standing seam, shingles, or panels-but that range covers most Nassau County homes I’ve quoted over the past three years.

Aluminum sits at the high end of residential roofing options. It’s not cheap. But in salt air it outlasts steel and shingles with far less corrosion, which is why homeowners near the South Shore, Long Beach, and the bay communities often pay the premium anyway.

What Does an Aluminum Roof Cost to Install in Nassau County?

If you want to understand aluminum roofing cost, you need to start with installed price-not just material price. That means every piece: tear-off of your old roof, disposal fees, plywood repairs if decking is soft, synthetic underlayment, ice-and-water shield, aluminum panels or shingles, all trim and flashings, and labor to put it together wind-rated and code-compliant for Nassau County.

Nassau County disposal, labor, and insurance costs are higher than many national averages. A contractor here pays more per ton to dump old shingles, pays higher wages to skilled metal installers, and carries more expensive liability and workers’ comp insurance. That pushes installed aluminum cost up compared to inland or rural markets.

Aluminum also isn’t a commodity metal roof. You can’t walk into every yard and order pre-cut aluminum standing seam like you can basic galvanized panels. Many aluminum systems are specialty-order items, and installers who work with aluminum regularly-especially in coastal corrosion zones-command higher rates because they understand fastener selection, galvanic isolation, and expansion details that matter for a 40- to 50-year roof life.

Aluminum vs Other Roof Types: Cost Positioning

Installed Cost, Not Just Panel Price

When I hand you a quote, the number on the bottom line includes everything: the aluminum coil or panels, trim coil for edge metal and rake, butyl sealant tape for seams, stainless or coated fasteners, synthetic underlayment rated for metal roofs, ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys, crew time to rip off your existing roof, dumpster to haul away the old material, and labor to install the new aluminum system with proper clip spacing and wind load compliance.

That’s very different from “aluminum costs $X per square foot” in a material catalog. The catalog number is raw metal. The installed number is the check you write to get a finished, warranted roof over your head.

Where Aluminum Typically Sits on the Cost Spectrum

• 3-tab or basic asphalt shingles – Lowest upfront cost, shortest life in salt air, least corrosion resistance.
• Architectural or laminate shingles – Modest step up from basic shingles; better wind rating and warranty, but still organic in a corrosive environment.
• Galvanized or galvalume steel corrugated panels – Entry-level metal pricing, good for garages and simple roofs; less corrosion margin than aluminum near the water.
• Steel standing seam and steel metal shingles – Mid- to high-tier metal pricing; excellent for many Nassau County homes, especially a few miles inland.
• Aluminum standing seam and aluminum shingles – Often the highest residential roofing cost, justified by top-tier corrosion resistance and long-term durability in direct salt exposure.

Aluminum doesn’t compete on initial affordability. It competes on coastal performance and lifespan.

Why Aluminum Roofing Costs More

Material: Aluminum vs Steel vs Shingles

Aluminum coil costs more per pound than galvanized or galvalume steel, and far more than asphalt shingle bundles. It’s lighter-about one-third the weight of steel-and it doesn’t rust in salt air, so manufacturers and metal suppliers charge a premium for that combination of properties. When I order aluminum standing seam coil for a Nassau County job, I’m paying 30% to 50% more per square foot of raw material than I would for comparable-gauge steel coil.

Many aluminum systems also come with high-performance paint systems-Kynar 500 or similar fluoropolymer coatings-that resist fading and chalking better than standard polyester paints on cheaper metals. That coating upgrade adds another increment to material cost, but it’s part of why aluminum roofs still look sharp after 20 years near the water.

Labor and Detailing

Installing aluminum standing seam or aluminum shingles uses the same basic steps as steel: measure and layout, cut panels to length, hem edges, lock seams, set clips, fasten trim. But aluminum is softer and more flexible than steel, so crews need to handle it more carefully to avoid dents and oil-canning. That doesn’t necessarily add hours, but it requires more experienced installers who understand how to work with the metal without marring it.

Jobs near the coast also demand more robust detailing. I spec stainless or coated fasteners on aluminum roofs within two miles of open water because standard galvanized screws will rust out before the aluminum panels do. I use wider ice-and-water coverage and more frequent clips on high-wind-rated jobs. All of that adds material cost and labor time compared to a basic shingle tear-off and re-roof.

Compared with asphalt shingles, aluminum installation is more specialized. In Nassau County, metal roofing crews who can properly install aluminum standing seam charge higher day rates than general shingle crews. That expertise is baked into your quote.

Factors That Push Aluminum Roof Cost Up or Down

Roof Size and Complexity

Larger roofs cost more in total dollars, but cost per square foot can drop slightly on simple layouts. A 2,000-square-foot gable ranch with two slopes, no dormers, and straight ridges is faster to panel and trim than a 1,800-square-foot colonial with three dormers, multiple valleys, and a turret. The colonial might end up costing as much or more per square foot because of all the extra cuts, flashings, and detail work.

I quoted two aluminum standing seam jobs last fall in Garden City: one was a clean hip roof, 2,200 square feet, quoted at $16.50 per square foot installed. The other was 2,100 square feet but had five dormers and a wrap-around porch with a standing seam roof over it; that one priced at $19 per square foot because of the labor and trim complexity. Same metal, same underlayment, different geometry.

Aluminum System Type

Aluminum standing seam systems-mechanically seamed or snap-lock-tend to be the most expensive per square foot because of the concealed-fastener design, the number of clips, and the precision required to keep seams straight and watertight over long panel runs. Aluminum shingles or tile-look systems can match or exceed standing seam cost on cut-up roofs because you’re installing hundreds of individual pieces with custom flashings around every dormer and valley.

Corrugated or ribbed aluminum panels with exposed fasteners are the budget aluminum option. They’re still more expensive than similar steel panels, but labor is lower because you’re screwing through the metal directly instead of using clips and seams. I see these mostly on carriage houses, pool cabanas, and outbuildings rather than primary residences.

Distance from the Water and Exposure

The closer you are to the South Shore, Reynolds Channel, or any tidal water, the more aluminum’s corrosion resistance matters-and the more likely your contractor will recommend upgrades that add cost. On a Long Beach or Point Lookout job, I automatically spec stainless fasteners, wider ice-and-water shield, and higher clip density to meet wind exposure category C or D. I also use heavier-gauge aluminum-0.032″ instead of 0.024″-if the roof is highly exposed, because the thicker metal resists panel flutter and denting better in coastal wind events.

Those choices add $1 to $3 per square foot to material and labor cost, but they’re what keep an aluminum roof performing for 40 years instead of needing fastener replacements and panel repairs at year 15.

Tear-Off, Deck Repair, and Underlayment Choices

If your existing roof has two layers of shingles, or if the decking is spongy in spots, tear-off and repair costs can rival the cost of the new aluminum itself. I’ve seen Nassau County tear-off and disposal add $3 to $5 per square foot to a job when we have to pull off multiple shingle layers and replace 20% of the plywood. That number is the same whether you’re putting back shingles, steel, or aluminum-but it hits harder on aluminum because the base metal cost is already high.

Aluminum roofs are also typically paired with premium underlayments: synthetic felt rated for high temps under metal, and ice-and-water shield that extends beyond code minimums. On a South Shore colonial, I’ll run ice-and-water the full first six feet at eaves and in every valley, plus around chimneys and skylights. That’s $800 to $1,500 more in materials than a basic shingle underlayment package, but it eliminates the risk of ice dam leaks and wind-driven rain finding a fastener hole.

Aluminum vs Other Roofing Costs: Is the Premium Justified?

Aluminum vs Asphalt Shingles

Aluminum will almost always cost two to three times what architectural shingles cost on the same house-sometimes more if you’re doing a specialty aluminum shingle system. A 2,000-square-foot colonial that would take $12,000 to $15,000 in good architectural shingles might run $32,000 to $40,000 in aluminum standing seam. That’s a huge upfront difference.

The case for aluminum over shingles isn’t about initial affordability. It’s about longevity in salt air and reduced replacement frequency. Shingles near the water might last 15 to 20 years before granule loss, algae growth, and edge lifting force a re-roof. Aluminum, properly installed with stainless fasteners and good underlayment, can go 40 to 50 years with minimal maintenance. Over that span, you’d likely replace the shingle roof twice, paying tear-off and disposal each time, while the aluminum roof is still performing.

If you’re three blocks from the beach in Long Beach or Lido, plan to stay in the house for 20-plus years, and hate the idea of dealing with another roof replacement in 15 years, aluminum’s premium makes sense. If you’re planning to sell in five years or you’re inland in a low-salt area, the shingle option might be the smarter financial move.

Aluminum vs Steel Metal Roofing

Steel metal roofing-galvalume standing seam or steel shingles-usually costs 20% to 40% less than aluminum on the same profile. A steel standing seam roof that runs $24,000 might cost $32,000 in aluminum. Both are metal, both are long-lived, and both can handle Nassau County wind and weather. The difference is corrosion resistance.

Galvalume and galvanized coatings protect steel from rust, and modern paint systems add another layer of protection. Inland or a few miles from the water, quality steel roofs perform beautifully for 30 to 40 years with no corrosion issues. But within a mile or two of tidal water, or on a direct South Shore exposure, salt spray accelerates corrosion at fastener penetrations, cut edges, and any spot where the coating is scratched or worn. Aluminum doesn’t rust, period. Even if the paint fades or scratches, the metal underneath won’t corrode.

I spec aluminum over steel when a homeowner is right on the water-bayfront in Massapequa, oceanfront in Long Beach-or when they want maximum corrosion margin and can afford the extra cost. I recommend steel over aluminum when the home is inland, the client is budget-conscious, and the steel system I’m quoting is high-quality galvalume with a good warranty. Both are defensible choices; the right one depends on exposure and budget.

When Paying for Aluminum Roofing Makes Sense in Nassau County

Ideal Aluminum Customer Profiles

• You live very close to the coast or a bay. Within a mile of open water, salt spray is a daily reality. Aluminum’s corrosion resistance pays off over decades.
• You’re in a long-term or forever home. If you plan to stay 20-plus years, aluminum’s higher upfront cost spreads over enough time that the lifetime cost per year is competitive with cheaper options that need earlier replacement.
• You’re doing a high-end renovation. If you’re upgrading siding, windows, and landscaping to a premium standard, an aluminum roof fits the overall investment and aesthetic.
• You want minimal maintenance and maximum peace of mind. Aluminum with stainless fasteners and proper installation is as close to “install and forget” as residential roofing gets in a coastal environment.

When You Might Not Need Aluminum

If you’re several miles inland-say, central Levittown, Hicksville, or Plainview-and you’re not seeing salt film on your car or windows, you’re not in a high-corrosion zone. A quality steel standing seam roof or even premium architectural shingles will likely give you 25 to 30 years of good service at a lower cost than aluminum. The extra spend on aluminum might not deliver enough extra benefit to justify the price difference.

If you expect to move within five to ten years, you also may not fully recoup aluminum’s premium at resale. Buyers appreciate a metal roof, but they often don’t distinguish between aluminum and steel or factor the corrosion difference into their offer. You’ll get some value back, but probably not the full delta between aluminum and a steel system.

What to Ask Contractors About Aluminum Roofing Cost

Clarify Scope and Inclusions

• Is the quote for full tear-off or overlay? Does it include deck repairs if we find rot during tear-off?
• What aluminum system and gauge are you quoting? Standing seam, shingles, or panels? What thickness-0.024″, 0.032″, or heavier?
• Which underlayment and ice-and-water products? Where will ice-and-water shield be installed, and is it synthetic felt or standard #30?
• What type of fasteners and flashings? Are they stainless, coated steel, or standard galvanized? Are they rated for coastal or high-wind use?
• What’s the warranty structure? Manufacturer material warranty and contractor workmanship warranty-how long and what’s covered?

Compare Aluminum to Alternatives on Your Roof

Ask for at least three quotes on the same scope: one aluminum option, one comparable steel metal roof, and one architectural shingle option. Seeing all three on your specific roof-your square footage, your complexity, your exposure-gives you real numbers to weigh against your timeline and goals.

When I walk a prospect through options, I show them what aluminum costs, what steel costs, and what premium shingles cost, all with the same underlayment and tear-off assumptions. That way they can see exactly what they’re paying for the aluminum upgrade and decide if the corrosion margin and longevity are worth it for their situation.

Frequently Asked Questions About Aluminum Roofing Cost in Nassau County

Is aluminum roofing always more expensive than steel?

On similar profiles and coatings, yes-aluminum is typically more expensive per square foot than galvalume or galvanized steel. Specialty steel systems with high-end coatings can narrow the gap, and in rare cases a designer steel product might cost as much as basic aluminum, but in general aluminum is the pricier substrate because of raw material cost and corrosion performance.

Will an aluminum roof lower my insurance enough to offset the cost?

Some insurers offer modest discounts for impact-resistant or wind-rated roofs, and metal roofs can qualify. But aluminum specifically doesn’t usually trigger a separate or larger discount than steel metal roofs. Any savings are typically small-maybe a few hundred dollars a year-compared to the several-thousand-dollar upfront difference between aluminum and other materials. Check with your insurance carrier for actual numbers before banking on premium savings.

Can I mix aluminum on coastal-facing slopes and steel elsewhere to save money?

Technically it’s possible to use different metals on different roof sections, but you must avoid direct metal-to-metal contact between aluminum and steel to prevent galvanic corrosion. You also need to manage aesthetics-mixing metals can look odd unless the design intentionally separates them by trim or architectural features. I’ve done a few jobs where we used aluminum on the most exposed slope and steel on the back, but it requires careful detailing and adds complexity. It’s not a common cost-saving move.

Does aluminum require less maintenance than steel or shingles?

Aluminum’s big advantage is that it won’t rust in salt air, so you don’t get the fastener corrosion or panel edge rust that can happen with steel near the water. It still needs periodic inspection-checking seams, clearing debris, looking at flashings-but you’re far less likely to need rust-related repairs or early fastener replacement. Compared to shingles, aluminum avoids granule loss, algae growth, and the wind damage that can lift or crack asphalt tabs in coastal wind. Over 30 to 40 years, aluminum typically needs fewer interventions than either steel or shingles in a high-salt environment.

Can you give me a detailed aluminum vs steel vs shingle cost comparison for my home?

The best way to get accurate numbers is an on-site assessment. I can measure your roof, note complexity and exposure, check your existing decking condition, and provide written quotes for aluminum standing seam, steel standing seam, and architectural shingles-all with the same scope and warranty so you can compare apples to apples. Every roof is different, and real quotes beat general ranges.

Use Aluminum Roofing Cost Information to Make a Smart Coastal Decision

Aluminum roofs cost more to install than shingles and most steel systems in Nassau County-expect $14 to $22 per square foot installed, or $22,000 to $53,000 depending on your home size and complexity. That premium buys you top-tier corrosion resistance, long-term durability, and fewer future replacements, especially if you live close to salt water.

Whether the extra spend makes sense depends on your exposure, how long you’ll own the home, and how much you value low-maintenance, low-corrosion peace of mind. Aluminum is the right choice for many South Shore and bayfront homes. It’s overkill for some inland properties where quality steel or even premium shingles will perform just fine at lower cost.

Get side-by-side quotes for aluminum, steel, and shingles on your actual roof. Compare real numbers, not just industry averages. Then decide based on your location, your timeline, and your budget. If you’re ready to see what aluminum roofing costs for your Nassau County home-and whether it’s the right investment for your situation-reach out for an on-site assessment and a transparent, written estimate that breaks down every line item.