Install Standing Seam Metal Roof

A true standing seam metal roof has zero exposed fasteners in the main roof field-every screw or clip sits beneath the panel flanges or inside the locked seam itself-which eliminates hundreds of potential leak points and gives you that clean, modern vertical-line profile most homeowners are after when they upgrade from asphalt shingles. I’m Nick “Clean Seam” Tavarez, and I’ve been fabricating and installing standing seam metal roofs across Nassau County for sixteen years, working everywhere from Long Beach capes sitting a few hundred feet from the ocean to older colonials tucked under tree canopies in Rockville Centre. What I’ve learned is this: installing a standing seam metal roof isn’t just swapping materials; it’s designing a system that accounts for your roof’s geometry, your home’s wind exposure, and how salt, heat, and storms will test that metal over the next forty years.

In this guide I’ll walk you through what makes standing seam different from other metal and shingle options, how a professional installation actually unfolds from tear-off to final flashing, and what Nassau County homeowners need to consider before committing to the investment.

What Makes a Standing Seam Metal Roof Different?

Standing seam panels are long, vertical metal sheets-often running uninterrupted from eave to ridge-with raised seams that interlock along the edges. The seams stand up anywhere from one to three inches above the flat of the panel, and that’s where adjacent panels lock together. Most residential standing seam systems use concealed fasteners, meaning the screws or clips that hold the panels to the deck are hidden under the next panel’s flange or locked inside the seam itself once it’s folded. This is a huge departure from corrugated or screw-down metal roofs, which have exposed screws with rubber washers punched right through the weather surface every twelve to eighteen inches.

Fewer exposed fasteners means fewer places for water to work its way under the roof when washers crack or screws back out over time. It also means the roof can expand and contract with temperature changes without pulling on fixed screws-panels “float” on clips that allow movement along the length of the seam. That thermal movement is critical in Nassau County, where summer sun can push metal surface temperatures well over a hundred degrees and winter cold can drop them below freezing, sometimes in the span of a few hours during a storm front.

Snap-Lock vs Mechanical-Lock Systems

There are two main types of standing seam profiles used on residential roofs around here. Snap-lock panels have a male and female edge that click together by hand during installation-fast, no special tools, and the seam sits about an inch and a half tall. These work well on roofs with decent pitch (4:12 or steeper) and straightforward geometry. I use snap-lock on a lot of ranch and cape-style homes in Levittown and Wantagh where the roof planes are simple, wind exposure isn’t extreme, and the homeowner wants a clean look without paying for the extra labor that mechanically seamed panels require.

Mechanical-seam (sometimes called double-lock standing seam) panels start with a taller seam profile, and after the panels are laid in place, a seaming tool crimps the flanges together in two passes, creating a weather-tight, mechanically interlocked seam that’s harder to pull apart in high winds. These systems handle lower slopes better-sometimes as low as 1:12 or 2:12-and they’re more forgiving when your roof has tricky valleys or complex intersections. On a colonial in Merrick with multiple dormers and a steep front gable facing the water, I’ll spec a mechanical-seam system because the extra uplift resistance and superior water-tightness justify the cost, especially when nor’easters are driving rain sideways at forty miles an hour.

Is Standing Seam Right for Your Roof?

Not every roof should be standing seam. The system shines on certain geometries and budgets, and struggles or costs more than it’s worth on others.

Roof Shape and Slope Requirements

Most standing seam panels require a minimum slope to shed water reliably. Snap-lock systems typically need at least 3:12 pitch; mechanically seamed panels can go as low as 1:12 or even ½:12 with the right underlayment and panel specifications. If you have a flat or near-flat section-say, a porch roof extension or a low-slope garage addition-you’ll need to either switch to a low-slope-rated standing seam profile, use a different roofing system for that section, or adjust the design. I’ve had homeowners in Freeport with older ranches that have almost-flat back sections; we put standing seam on the main house and a membrane system on the flat addition, keeping the look consistent with trim details but using the right tool for each job.

Long, clean roof planes from eave to ridge are ideal. Valleys, hips, dormers, and chimneys can all be handled with standing seam, but each one adds fabrication time and requires careful flashing. On a complex roof with a dozen penetrations and intersecting planes, the labor cost can climb quickly, and sometimes a high-end architectural shingle or a different metal profile makes more economic sense unless you really want that vertical standing seam aesthetic.

Home Style and Curb Appeal

Standing seam looks sharp on contemporary, modern farmhouse, and coastal-style homes-it complements clean lines and large windows. I’ve installed charcoal-gray and matte black standing seam on new construction in Long Beach and Sea Cliff, and the vertical seams play well with horizontal siding and board-and-batten accents. On traditional colonials and cape-style homes, the look can still work, but panel width and color choice matter more. Narrower twelve-inch panels in a bronze or dark green often blend better with older architecture than wide sixteen- or eighteen-inch panels in bright colors.

If you’re in an HOA neighborhood-common in parts of Garden City, Westbury, or East Meadow-check your community guidelines before ordering materials. Many HOAs are warming up to metal roofs because they last longer and resist storm damage better than shingles, but some still have color or finish restrictions. Bring product samples and photos to your architectural review committee early in the process so you’re not stuck with a pallet of panels you can’t install.

Budget and Long-Term Plans

Standing seam typically costs more per square than premium architectural shingles and even more than some screw-down metal roofs. Installed pricing on a straightforward Nassau County home usually runs between fourteen and twenty-two dollars per square foot depending on metal type, panel profile, roof complexity, and whether you’re adding insulation or upgraded underlayments. A 1,500-square-foot roof could be anywhere from $21,000 to $33,000 or higher if the geometry is tough or you choose aluminum or specialty coatings for salt-air protection.

The payoff is longevity and reduced maintenance. A well-installed standing seam roof can last forty to fifty years or more, while most asphalt shingles need replacement every twenty to twenty-five years. If you plan to stay in your home for the next couple decades, or if you want to avoid another full roof tear-off in fifteen years, standing seam starts looking like a solid investment rather than just an aesthetic choice.

How a Professional Standing Seam Installation Unfolds

Here’s what happens when you hire a crew that knows how to install standing seam metal correctly, from the day we show up to measure through the final cleanup.

Step 1: Site Visit, Inspection, and Measurements

Before we quote or order materials, I come out and walk your roof-physically get up there with a tape measure, slope gauge, and notepad. I’m checking deck condition through any soft spots or sags, looking at how your attic vents, noting where valleys and chimneys fall, and measuring each roof plane’s dimensions and pitch. I also ask about chronic issues: do you get ice dams along the eaves? Does wind lift shingles in one corner more than others? Have you had leaks around the chimney or skylights?

This visit is when we talk profile, metal type, and color. If you’re close to the water-Long Beach, Atlantic Beach, Island Park-I’ll recommend either .032 aluminum or 24-gauge Galvalume steel with a high-grade Kynar or PVDF finish, because those handle salt air better than basic galvanized or thinner gauges. We’ll also discuss whether you want a matte finish or a glossy one, and whether you’re open to a mechanical-seam system if your roof’s exposure or pitch warrants it.

Step 2: Tear-Off and Deck Preparation

Most standing seam installs over existing shingle roofs start with a full tear-off down to the wood deck. Shingles, old underlayment, and any ridge vents come off, and we inspect every sheet of plywood or OSB. Any rotten, warped, or spongy decking gets replaced. Standing seam panels are stiff and will telegraph any waves or dips in the deck, so a flat, solid substrate is critical-not just for performance, but also to avoid visible oil-canning (that wavy, rippled look) on the finished roof.

On older homes in Levittown or Hicksville with original 1950s framing, we sometimes find skip sheathing (boards with gaps) under the shingles. If that’s the case, we either overlay it with plywood or replace it entirely, because standing seam needs continuous decking to support the clips and allow proper underlayment coverage.

Step 3: Underlayments and Ice Protection

Once the deck is clean and solid, we roll out synthetic underlayment across the entire roof-usually a high-temperature, slip-resistant product that can handle the metal panels sitting on it during installation and won’t degrade if it’s exposed to sun for a few days. At the eaves, in valleys, around chimneys, and along any sidewalls, we install self-adhered ice-and-water shield. This rubberized membrane bonds directly to the deck and seals around fastener penetrations, giving you a second line of defense if water ever works its way under a panel edge or through a flashing joint.

Nassau County building code requires ice-and-water protection along eaves in most cases-typically the first three to six feet depending on your inspector-but I extend it further up valleys and around penetrations because I’ve seen what happens when a nor’easter drives rain horizontally under standard underlayment. That extra few hundred dollars in material can save you a very expensive leak repair later.

Step 4: Panel Layout and Installation

We snap chalk lines to establish where the first panel will land, making sure the seams will run parallel and evenly spaced across the roof. The first panel is the most important-if it’s crooked, every panel after it compounds the error and you end up with seams that look visibly off by the time you reach the opposite rake edge. We set the starter strip or eave trim, then position the first panel and fasten it with clips spaced per the manufacturer’s tested specifications-usually sixteen to twenty-four inches on center in the field, closer spacing at edges and high-wind zones.

Each subsequent panel locks into the previous one-either snapping into place or, for mechanical seams, sitting loosely until we run the seaming tool up the joint to fold and crimp the flanges together. The panels are cut to length so they run continuously from eave to ridge whenever possible, eliminating horizontal seams that could trap water or create weak points. On long runs-say, a thirty-foot rake gable-we account for thermal expansion by using sliding clips that let the metal move without buckling or pulling fasteners loose.

Panel color and gauge come into play here too. Lighter colors reflect more heat and expand slightly less than dark colors; thicker gauges resist oil-canning better but cost more and weigh more. On a steep roof in Garden City with a lot of southern exposure, I installed a white .032 aluminum standing seam that keeps the attic noticeably cooler in summer and moves very little because aluminum has a lower expansion coefficient than steel.

Step 5: Flashing, Ridge, and Detail Work

Once the main field panels are locked down, we turn to the details that actually keep water out: ridge caps, hip caps, rake trim, step flashing at sidewalls, valley pans, and penetration flashings for chimneys, skylights, and vent pipes. These aren’t off-the-shelf shingle flashings-they’re either factory-formed metal pieces designed for standing seam profiles or custom-bent components we fabricate on-site to match the seam height and panel width.

Valleys on standing seam roofs can be open (a separate valley pan under the panel ends) or closed (panels woven or cut to meet in the valley). I prefer open valleys with a hemmed metal pan because they shed water and debris faster and are easier to maintain. Around chimneys, we install a combination of step flashing, counter flashing, and sometimes a cricket (a small peaked diverter) on the high side if the chimney is wide enough to trap snow and water. Every joint is sealed with high-grade polyether or silicone sealant rated for metal roofing-not generic caulk, which fails in a year or two under UV and temperature swings.

Ridge and hip caps are mechanically seamed or screwed through pre-punched slots, and we make sure they’re vented if your attic ventilation strategy requires ridge venting. On older homes with gable vents or powered attic fans, we sometimes use solid ridge caps and rely on soffit-to-gable airflow instead.

Step 6: Final Inspection and Cleanup

Before we leave, I walk the roof again with the crew lead, checking every seam lock, every clip fastener, and every flashing joint. We confirm that gutters and downspouts are reattached and aligned with the new drip edges, that all old materials and metal scraps are picked up from the yard, and that the dumpster is hauled away. The homeowner gets a folder with the metal manufacturer’s warranty, the finish warranty, our workmanship warranty, color and product spec sheets, and a one-page maintenance guide that covers snow-guard installation points if needed, gutter cleaning frequency, and when to call us for a seam or flashing check.

This is also when I answer any lingering questions about noise (not an issue with solid decking and insulation), ice shedding (we can add snow guards over entryways if you’re worried), and panel appearance over time (some matte finishes show less chalk fade than glossy ones after a decade of sun).

Standing Seam in Nassau County’s Climate

Nassau County sits on Long Island’s south shore with Atlantic exposure, which means wind, salt, and temperature swings define how a roof performs long-term.

Wind Uplift and Nor’easters

Our building code-based on ASCE 7 wind maps and local amendments-requires roofs to withstand design wind speeds in the 110 to 130 mph range depending on exposure category and distance from open water. Standing seam systems meet these requirements when installed with the correct clip spacing, fastener type, and edge detailing, all of which are tested and certified by the panel manufacturer. On a Long Beach cape sitting three blocks from the ocean, I use closer clip spacing in the corner and edge zones (sometimes every twelve inches instead of eighteen) and upgrade to mechanically seamed panels because the tested uplift resistance is higher than snap-lock in those wind zones.

The failure mode I see most often on cheap or incorrectly installed metal roofs is clips that are spaced too far apart or fasteners that miss the rafters and only grab sheathing. When a strong nor’easter hits, the panels lift at the seams, bend the clips, or tear the fasteners through the deck. Proper installation following the manufacturer’s wind-zone tables prevents that.

Salt Air and Corrosion Resistance

Within a mile or two of the coast-Freeport, Long Beach, Atlantic Beach-salt-laden air accelerates corrosion on any exposed metal. Aluminum naturally resists rust because it forms a protective oxide layer, so .032 aluminum standing seam with a Kynar finish is my first recommendation for waterfront homes. If budget is tight or the homeowner prefers the look of steel, I spec 24-gauge Galvalume (aluminum-zinc coated steel) with a minimum PVDF resin topcoat, which holds up better than polyester or SMP finishes in salty environments.

Fastener choice matters too. Stainless steel screws cost a bit more than zinc-plated or painted carbon-steel screws, but they won’t rust through the rubber washer and stain the panel or weaken the attachment. Cut edges on panels-anywhere we trim or notch the metal-are vulnerable spots because the coating is removed and raw metal is exposed; we touch up those edges with a factory-matched repair paint to seal them.

Sun, Heat, and Reflective Finishes

Summer heat on a dark metal roof can push surface temperatures above 160°F, and all that heat radiates into the attic if your insulation and ventilation aren’t up to par. Cool-roof finishes-usually lighter colors with high solar reflectance values-bounce more sunlight away and keep the roof surface 20 to 30 degrees cooler than dark colors. I installed a light stone-gray standing seam on a colonial in East Meadow, and the homeowner reported a noticeable drop in second-floor bedroom temperatures that first summer compared to the old black shingles they had before.

That said, roof color is only one piece of the thermal puzzle. If your attic has six inches of old fiberglass insulation and no ridge vent, even a white metal roof won’t fix your cooling bills. We often coordinate standing seam installs with insulation upgrades and proper soffit-to-ridge ventilation so the whole envelope works together.

Working with a Standing Seam Metal Roof Installer in Nassau County

Choosing a contractor is half the battle. Here’s what to ask and what to expect.

Key Questions to Ask Contractors

• How many residential standing seam metal roofs have you installed in the past two years, and can I see photos or visit a nearby completed project? You want someone who does standing seam regularly, not a crew that usually installs shingles and is trying metal for the first time on your house.
• Which panel profile and metal type do you recommend for my roof’s slope, complexity, and distance from the coast? A good installer will explain why they’re suggesting snap-lock vs mechanical, steel vs aluminum, based on your specific conditions-not just quote one system for everyone.
• Will you follow the panel manufacturer’s tested installation details, and what warranties will that give me? Standing seam systems come with detailed installation manuals that specify clip types, spacing, fastener patterns, and flashing methods. Following those details is how you qualify for the 30- or 40-year finish warranty and the manufacturer’s performance guarantee. If the installer says “we do it our own way,” walk away.
• What happens if we find rotten decking or framing issues during tear-off? Get a clear answer on how hidden repairs are priced-usually time-and-materials with a not-to-exceed cap-so you’re not surprised by a big change order mid-job.
• Do you pull permits and coordinate inspections, or is that on me? In Nassau County, most roof replacements require a building permit and at least one inspection. A professional contractor handles that process, schedules the inspector, and makes sure the work passes so your certificate of occupancy stays clean.

What a Detailed Proposal Should Include

A real standing seam proposal isn’t a one-page estimate with a total at the bottom. It should list the metal type and gauge, panel profile (snap-lock or mechanical, seam height, panel width), finish brand and color, underlayment type, ice-and-water shield coverage, flashing materials, whether the old roof is being removed or not, how many roof planes and penetrations are included, and what the cleanup and dumpster plan looks like. It should also outline the timeline (standing seam takes longer than shingles-expect a week or more on a typical home), who’s responsible for permits, and whether there’s any allowance or contingency for deck repairs.

If the proposal says “standing seam metal roof” with a price and nothing else, ask for details before you sign. You need to know exactly what you’re buying so you can compare bids properly and avoid misunderstandings later.

Frequently Asked Questions About Standing Seam Metal Roofs

Are standing seam roofs noisy during rain?
Not really, as long as you have solid decking, underlayment, and insulation in the attic-which is standard on almost every home in Nassau County. The myth of loud metal roofs comes from agricultural buildings with metal over open purlins and no insulation. On a properly built residential roof, rain noise is similar to or only slightly louder than asphalt shingles. Some homeowners with bedroom ceilings right under the roofline say they actually like the soft drumming sound during storms.

Can snow and ice slide off too quickly and create a hazard?
Yes, metal roofs shed snow more easily than shingles, especially when the sun warms the panels and breaks the bond between the metal and the snow layer. If you have walkways, decks, or entryways directly below a roof edge, we can install snow guards or snow fences-small metal brackets or continuous bars that hold snow on the roof and let it melt gradually rather than sliding off in sheets. On a steep-pitched colonial in Rockville Centre, I spaced snow guards every four feet along the eave above the front entry, and the homeowner has had zero issues with dangerous ice dumps.

Do standing seam roofs work with solar panels?
They’re actually ideal for solar. Most solar mounting systems designed for standing seam clamp directly onto the raised seams without penetrating the roof at all, which preserves your waterproofing and makes future panel removal or repositioning much easier. If you’re planning to add solar in the next few years, tell your roofer during the standing seam design phase so we can plan seam spacing and orientation to match standard solar rail layouts.

How long does a standing seam metal roof last?
It depends on the metal type, finish quality, and how well it was installed and maintained. Galvalume steel with a good Kynar finish in a typical Nassau County suburban setting should last 40 to 50 years or more before you need to think about replacement. Aluminum can go even longer in coastal areas. Paint finishes will chalk and fade over time-lighter colors and higher-quality resins fade slower-but the metal itself remains structurally sound long after shingles would have been replaced twice.

Do you install standing seam metal roofs throughout Nassau County?
Yes. We work in every corner of Nassau County, from waterfront homes in Long Beach and Island Park to inland neighborhoods in Levittown, Hicksville, Garden City, and Merrick. Every job starts with an on-site evaluation so we can recommend the right system for your roof and environment, then walk you through the process and pricing before any work begins.

Take the Next Step Toward a Standing Seam Metal Roof

A standing seam metal roof is a long-term investment in your home’s protection, curb appeal, and resale value, but only if it’s designed and installed correctly for your specific roof geometry and Nassau County’s coastal-influenced weather. The difference between a roof that lasts fifty years and one that leaks or fails in a windstorm often comes down to clip spacing, flashing details, and whether the installer followed the manufacturer’s tested installation methods-not just whether they used metal instead of shingles.

If you’re serious about standing seam, start by gathering a few key pieces of information: rough measurements or square footage of your roof, photos of your home’s exterior so you can visualize colors and profiles, any HOA documents if applicable, and a list of current roof problems (ice dams, leaks, wind damage) you want the new system to solve. Then reach out to a contractor who specializes in residential standing seam work-not just someone who “also does metal”-and ask the questions I outlined above. Use the installation walkthrough and the system comparison table as a checklist during your consultation so you know what to expect and what to push back on if something doesn’t sound right.

At TWI Roofing, we treat every standing seam project like custom metalwork because that’s what it is-panels cut to fit your roof, clips spaced for your wind zone, and flashing formed to seal your specific valleys, chimneys, and wall intersections. If you want to explore whether standing seam makes sense for your Nassau County home, call us or fill out the contact form and we’ll schedule a site visit to measure, discuss options, and give you a detailed proposal with real numbers and material specs-not vague estimates. Your roof is over your head for decades; it’s worth taking the time to get it right the first time.